Once again, Penfolds Grange does not disappoint.
Radiant deep red, on rim, black core on the nose its freshness and brashness is definitively Grange-y! Instantly, an assault of piercing V.A. (seemingly quite masterfully dialled-up!), a portal of pulsating formics tempered by relaxed barrel-ferment notes. Conveying what is then revealed via waves of lingering and layered aromatics: First the fruit – ripe blackberries and blackcurrant reduction, laced with spices, notably fennel and anise. Then a sprinkle of dark chocolate, cocoa-powder and cola. Without prying, unabashed scents akin to charcoaled lamb fat, and raw wagyu carpaccio (amid caper berries) arise to authenticate shiraz DNA.
A modicum of modesty, attempting to conceal all beneath a blackened veil of hydrocarbon shoe-polish/sootiness/coal dust and slate. Conceded, the presence of an ever-so-subtle yet complexing higher-tone mahogany/piano-polish/ lacquer – no doubt derived from the earth, not oak. A trepidant tension unfolds – youthful fruitiness wrestling an inky and dense powerhouse.
100 – James Suckling
“A robust Grange from a lauded vintage, this wields sheer power with such compelling prowess. Uncompromising Grange. There are rich blackberries and plums on offer, together with brazen oak and abundant notes of blackcurrants, black cherries, charcoal, cola and hard brown spices. So fleshy and intense. Dark-chocolate and cocoa-powder aromas and flavors here, too. The tannins are polished and long, extruding deep into the finish and holding endlessly. Dark chocolate, black cherry, dark plum and more. Impressive. Brazen. One of the great Granges that will drink magnificently for decades to come.”