“… clearly built for a long spell in the dungeon.”
Introducing Penfolds Bin 407 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon.
A crimson red colour, the nose is compelling, attention grabbing and varietally correct, with all the t’s crossed and i’s dotted. There is a lot to decipher here. First, heady aromatics of violets, blackberry and mulberries followed by cherry clafoutis, blood plums and brioche. Next to emerge are the leafy, herbaceous notes, perfectly rendered without any suggestion of under ripeness. Mulberry leaf, bay leaf, wet tobacco and cigar box add further intrigue. Classic English baking spices lurk quietly in the background.
After the aromatic impression, one might expect a forbidding palate. But this is not so. It’s remarkably approachable, yet clearly built for a long spell in the dungeon. The cool dark fruits are very concentrated and varietal. The leafy notes on the nose morph into char-grilled savoury flavours of grilled capsicum and cumin spiced eggplant, infused by sandalwood and cherry wood smoke. The tannins are graphite-like, fine but reassuringly persistent, with a faint suggestion of bitter dark chocolate. At the time of tasting the wine is very energetic, dancing the tango at full tempo. Don’t expect a slow waltz anytime soon. One for the long haul.
96 – Tyson Stelzer
“… Bin 407 has risen to the occasion with a combination of definition, structure and concentration that immediately establish it among the greatest and most enduring in the grand history of this label. This is a textbook assemblage of all of cabernet’s classic hallmarks, with an incredible core of blackcurrant purity, set to a brilliant display of pronounced chalk mineral tannin finesse and vibrant cool season acid drive. It will live a very long time indeed.”